Being so deeply connected with nature, while aligning with waves and ensuring you’re in the zone, living the present moment, knowing the wave will eventually end.
And this perspective definitely makes surfboarding an opportunity for introspection, on a certain level.
Even more if you take the next step and start designing boards, as Diogo Appleton did, when in 2014 - after an experience in Australia - transitioned from being a surfer to becoming a board designer and maker. "My passion for surfing developed gradually, always motivated by my father, who taught me to surf when I was 8 years old" he recalls.
Then, back home in Europe, "I realized that my interest in alternative boards needed to be explored. My father made boards in the late 80s, and it was with him that I started my first attempts without having high expectations."
High expectations that have been meet in the meantime, as Applteon is now a well-known and respected board designer in the surf community, constantly facing the challenge to ensure "that the surfer’s expectations of the board match reality. It’s not easy to please all surfers, as surfing has too many variables and is complex on many levels" he states.
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The art of surfboard making
When asked to describe the process of board making, Appleton explains that it all begins with "an honest conversation to determine the surfer's level, the type of waves they want to surf, and their background." From there, he moves on to planning the chosen model, determining the general dimensions, such as length, width, and thickness, according to the client’s weight, height, and surfing level.
"Once the measurements are set, the next step is using the electric planer and other tools to start shaping the board," he continues. "Every model has its particularities and details that are highly relevant and can influence the following stages."
After the shape is finalized, the next step is fiber glass and resin application, which provides strength and durability. At this stage, Appleton can also customize the board with colors or pigments, respecting drying times throughout this process to ensure the quality of the board.
Finally, after the resin cures, the board goes through a sanding process to ensure a smooth surface. But what makes his boards so unique?
The answer is easy: all his surfboards are 100% handmade, without any use of technology. "My philosophy and work ethic are based on admiration and respect for the art of hand-shaping and the time we dedicate to each piece, but that alone doesn’t define my brand."